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      A Queer Traveler’s Guide to San Antonio: Embracing Diversity and Culture

      Image: This exhibit at San Antonio's Hopscotch, in partnership with the HRC, is called GAZE. (Photo Credit: Photo by Paul J. Heney.)
      Image: This exhibit at San Antonio's Hopscotch, in partnership with the HRC, is called GAZE. (Photo Credit: Photo by Paul J. Heney.)
      Paul Heney
      by Paul Heney
      Last updated: 7:00 AM ET, Fri September 5, 2025

      It’s easy to categorize areas of the country as being unfriendly to LGBTQ citizens, but focusing on entire states can mean that queer travelers might miss out on some incredibly welcoming and diverse cities.

      San Antonio is certainly a place that the queer community should visit and celebrate, as the locals here are among the friendliest that my husband and I have encountered. There’s a palpable civic pride amongst locals, always wanting to assist travelers and recommend their favorite things. Here’s a rundown of some of what makes the Alamo City special.

      Stay and celebrate

      We enjoyed a long weekend at the Hotel Contessa, an independent luxury all-suite property in the heart of downtown and located right on the city’s iconic Riverwalk. The rooms are bright and modern, and there’s a rooftop fitness facility and outdoor pool, which was very popular during our stay. You don’t even need to leave the property for a good meal, as Ambler Texas Kitchen + Cocktails serves a nice array of local specialties, with indoor space as well as outdoor seating right next to the Riverwalk. Try the salmon with the peach chutney topping, a flavorful combination.

      One of the spacious suites at the Hotel Contessa in San Antonio. (Photo Credit: Photo by Paul J. Heney.)

      There’s a whole block of queer clubs and shops along what’s called St. Mary’s Strip that is well worth exploring, but a unique part of the local queer nightlife here is called The Bonham Exchange. We toured the three-level facility with social media manager Lyn-Z Andrews, who is also a legendary (not to mention gorgeous!) drag performer in the city.

      Bonham is like a queer district all in itself, with roughly 10 different bars and multiple rooms/areas, each with a different vibe. So, whether you’re feeling like a patio evening, a big laser-infused club, a quiet game of pool, or checking out go-go dancers in the video bar, that’s all an option for you here. The building has a ton of history and has been a queer space for more than four decades; the charming Joan Duckworth operates it today through The Happy Foundation. Duckworth has a fascinating history herself, as she started here many years ago mopping the floors and worked her way up—plus her grandmother worked here back when it was a USO Club.

      Dancing at the Bonham Exchange, a multi-lever queer club in San Antonio. (Photo Credit: Photo by Paul J. Heney.)

      Don’t skip the drag brunch at Paramour at the Phipps, one of the best things we experienced in the city. The beautiful rooftop space on the fourth floor has a nice view of downtown San Antonio in the distance. Paramour boasts a funky decor with colorful shag carpet on the walls and big graphic print throw pillows. Mimosas here are great, and the breakfast tacos (three per order) are delicious—standout was the egg and bacon with the salsa verse.?Lyn-Z Andrews was one of the hostesses, along with one of her drag daughters and plenty of other talented performers. This was one of the more extensive and friendlier drag brunches we have been to, and we’d go back again anytime.

      Drag show at the Paramour at the Phipps in San Antonio. (Photo Credit: Photo by Paul J. Heney.)

      Making art fun

      Another favorite experience was Hopscotch, a queer-owned immersive art experience. Located downtown, the fun starts with a bar that serves some of the best drinks in town. And patrons are encouraged to take their drinks to the galleries downstairs, allowing for a relaxed experience of all the art. Many of the artworks incorporate light and movement, and most have an interactive component, making it a joy for both kids and adults. There’s a powerful queer installation done in conjunction with the Human Rights Coalition, and there’s even a neon lit ball pit that we jumped in, pretending we were in elementary school once again.

      One of the exhibits at San Antonio's queer-owned Hopscotch. (Photo Credit: Photo by Paul J. Heney.)

      Ruby City is a contemporary art museum, housed in an angular, boxy structure that feels full of movement. It’s the legacy of Linda Pace, herself an artist, collector, and philanthropist who was the daughter of the founders of Pace Foods, commonly known for Pace Picante Sauce. The museum includes the main building, a sculpture garden, and Chris Park (named after Pace’s son), with meandering paths, art, and another smaller building, the Studio, with temporary exhibitions.

      Current exhibitions include Bedroom Paintings by Joey Fauerso and Synthesis & Subversion Redux in the Studio. Ruby City features artwork by and about the LGBTQ community, including photographs by Laura Aguilar and occasional exhibitions.

      Exterior of San Antonio's Ruby City Art Museum. (Photo Credit: Photo by Paul J. Heney.)

      Top-notch cuisine

      San Antonio is more than Tex-Mex (although you’ll certainly find that here in spades), and we were impressed by the breath of quality restaurants across the city. Some of the best include:

      • The Newsstand is a great community place for breakfast and lunch with a journalism theme. It’s located in a lovely space and was so bustling when we went. In between petting the friendly dog at the table next to us, we enjoyed the avocado toast, served with sprouts and tomatoes and just a bit of olive oil. Also yummy are the egg sandwiches and the coffee—the Paper Route iced latte was spectacular, and another customer even came over to ask what it was so she could order one. There’s a cute vintage shop in the rear with additional seating for patrons.
      • Pharm Table may rely on hyper locally sourced ingredients, but the vibe is quite global in nature. Chef Elizabeth Johnson has a winner with this concept, from the inventive cocktails like the Mera Mera (an elevated margarita) to the sumptuous tandoori sweet potato with cilantro coconut chutney. I added on the adobe short rib, and the combination was perfection!
      • Best Quality Daughter, located the popular Pearl District, serves a Chinese-South Texas fusion cuisine in a historic home that features big pink print wallpaper and soft fabrics, almost reminiscent of something you’d find in Charleston or Savannah. There’s a cool bar next to the front door and a lively atmosphere. Everything we had here, from the popcorn chicken to the cashew chicken, was good. But the salt and pepper shrimp, with its accompanying chimichurri sauce, was incredible.
      • Rosario’s ComidaMex, a decades-long favorite in San Antonio, moved to its current space in 2023, a modern dining hall with dramatic red walls. The salsa here is sweet and smoky, but it was the Mexican street corn that hooked us, with its cheesy goodness. Entrees here are excellent, including their mole sauce, but don’t skip on the bar; the La Pi?a cocktail, a spicy pineapple type margarita, was our favorite.
      • Southerleigh Fine Food & Brewery, at The Pearl, is located in a magnificent space and known for its Southern cuisine. And for sure, the fried green tomatoes appetizer hit all the right notes, elevated by the lump crab meat in the dipping sauce. Other winners here are the chicken & waffles and the shrimp and grits entrée. The restaurant was honored last year with a Michelin Bib Gourmond, thanks to its excellent food at reasonable prices.

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      Paul Heney

      Paul Heney

      Paul J. Heney is a lifelong writer and avid world traveler. He's served as Editorial Director for several hospitality magazines, including Luxury Hotelier, Hotel Design, and Hotel & Motel Management. He has written extensively about family travel, green issues, cruises, and LGBT travel issues. He has won multiple Azbee awards for writing from the American Society of Business Publication Editors and served as National President of the association from 1999-2003. He lives in suburban Cleveland with his partner and two sons. Follow him on Twitter at @paulheney or Instagram at @paulheney.

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