Two years after the Maui wildfires, the popular island is eager for the tourists that run its economy. I traveled to the island last month and found locals who are welcoming visitors back, even as they continue to rebuild in the hardest hit areas. Here¡¯s a look at some of what¡¯s new here, and what continues to amaze.

Fresh faced resorts

We split our time between two luxury properties in Wailea, the Fairmont Kea Lani and the Andaz Maui. Both have come off major renovations, giving visitors some stunning new options.

At the Fairmont Kea Lani, the gleaming lobby is a true centerpiece, with a fascinating design that seems to be inspired by Greece, but with a Middle Easter flair. The whitewashed arches and domes contrast beautifully with the azure waters beyond, and for as large of a lobby as it is, I found it full of nooks and crannies that made it perfect for lounging. A cultural center, just off the lobby, is open daily and as my guide Ho¡¯ohu explained, the goal is to perpetuate their culture in an authentic way and hopefully spread it across the waters to other parts of the world.

The lovely grounds of the Fairmont Kea Lani in Maui. (Photo Credit: Photo by Paul J. Heney.)

Our modern, redesigned suite featured two queen beds, a sleeper sofa, and a lovely ocean-view lanai. Earth tone colors were complimented by warm woods and pops of color from some Hawaiian floral prints. The Fairmont¡¯s staff is warm and engaging and made us feel at home from the start.

We had some of the best sushi on the island at the Pilina restaurant and lounge, right off the lobby. Standouts include the venison sliders, Volcano House, a drink that¡¯s a wonderful take on an old fashioned, the cheesecake, and of course the sushi. Signature restaurant K¨­, is closed for renovations until October, but the resort has replaced its absence with the fantastic Kea Lani Dinner Experience. This elevated buffet is inspired by K¨­¡¯s unique flavors.

Over at the Andaz Maui, you¡¯ll find 320 guestrooms, including 35 suites and 30 villas. Our suite was lighter and brighter than the last time I was here, in 2020, and all rooms have been refreshed. Bathrooms have been updated and there¡¯s new lighting, mattresses, TVs, and more. We had two lanais, both with ocean views¡ªone of them provided stunning sunsets each evening.

My teenage son truly loved the variety of pools, including three cascading infinity pools, an adults-only pool (that he just qualified for, at 18), a lagoon pool, and a large hot tub. The Andaz¡¯s beach, while public (like all in Hawaii), feels very private, with reefs extending out from either end of the bay. The snorkeling here is first rate, and we saw endless tropical fish just from walking into the surf with our equipment on¡ªno boat tours required here!

We also enjoyed an exhilarating Outrigger Canoe Experience here. Our guide, Honu, told us about the history of these canoes and pointed out the best places to snorkel, as well as chatted about his beloved home island. I was surprised by how balanced the canoe was and how easily it glided through the water. Breakfast each morning at Ka¡¯ana Kitchen was a favorite, with an extensive variety of local ingredients and plenty of fresh fruits and juices.

Still that incredible cuisine

There¡¯s an amazing array of food on Maui, starting with the freshest seafood, but encompassing so much more. Some favorites included:

? Merriman¡¯s Maui continues the three-decade tradition of Peter Merriman, and the setting here only amps up the expectations. The restaurant is perched on a bluff overlooking Kapalua Bay, affording stunning sunsets and endless views. And the food definitely lived up to the view. There is an excellent variety of raw bar options, as well as steaks and seafood.?The Virgin Mai Tai, which was very passion fruit forward, was probably the best mocktail I¡¯ve ever had¡ªand maybe one of the best cocktails, period. The honey wheat bread service came with a lovely olive oil and tomato dip. For me, the standout entrees were the USDA Prime Filet Mignon and the Keyhole Lobster Chili Verde. The chili verde sauce was just the right accompaniment, and along with the jalape?o cornbread, I thought I was satisfied. But then came the pineapple macadamia nut bread pudding with salted caramel sauce, the kind of thing that you¡¯d order as your last meal. Wow.

The Keyhole Lobster Chili Verde entree at Merriman¡¯s Maui. (Photo Credit: Photo by Paul J. Heney.)

? The brand-new KOAST has a Hawaii meets the Hamptons vibe, with beautiful textures, comfortable seating, and a sunny, open-air vibe. Just opened in the past couple of months, KOAST seems to already have hit its stride. Chef Chris Cosentino has a winner with the octopus toast¡ªsatisfying with a chili-like kick and perfectly prepared slices of the seafood. Try the tomato and watermelon starter, we couldn¡¯t stop eating it. Everything here was so flavorful, from the seared ahi to the ragu rigatoni. I¡¯m still dreaming of the signature dessert: a half pineapple that¡¯s cored. The meat is then Sous Vide with Thai chili and vanilla, filled with coconut ice cream, passion fruit curd, and br?l¨¦ed Italian citrus meringue. Perfection!

KOAST's signature pineapple dessert is off the proverbial charts. (Photo Credit: Photo by Paul J. Heney.)

? Seascapes, at the Maui Ocean Center, was another delight with a view. We enjoyed watching the boats in the harbor for a leisurely lunch at this 100% sustainable restaurant. The burger and fries were very good, and the ahi special was quite tasty, a piccata style with scallops, broccoli, cauliflower, and potatoes.?The mud pie was not as small as the waitress promised, but what a good lie she told! It was incredible with the chocolate and caramel and macadamia nuts. We couldn¡¯t stop eating it and found room we didn¡¯t know we had, continuing a ¡°try all the desserts on the island¡± trip.?

Excursions

We also enjoyed two incredible excursions while touring the island.

A sunset and stargazing from the top of Haleakal¨¡ was a lifetime memory, and I¡¯d repeat it in a second. Run by Jan Roberson, Maui Stargazing takes you to the 10,000-foot summit of the volcano in time to eat your (bring your own) picnic dinner for sunset.

The summertime Milky Way, as seen from the top of Haleakala on Maui. (Photo Credit: Photo by Paul J. Heney.)

Roberson has such passion for the night sky, and her storytelling is enchanting and understandable by all. She spoke about out place in the solar system and Milky Way, and then showed us numerous star clusters, galaxies, nebulae, and more in her large telescope. I¡¯ve seen the Milky Way all around the world in dark skies, but never like I did from the top of Haleakal¨¡, with 10,000 feet of lower atmosphere out of the way.

The Maui Pineapple Tour will impress you with the science behind growing this local favorite, the Maui Gold Pineapple. What¡¯s more, you receive a free pineapple (already packed for airport transport) with each tour. The occasional Farm & Feast Experience includes a wonderful dinner after the tour at nearby H¨¡li?imaile General Store.

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